Tree or Tree of Life block is one of my favorite. I again paper pieced as I wanted all my points to be accurate and also discovered Electric Quilt 8 doesn’t like to define cutting instructions for unusual shape pieces with more than 4 sides, I discovered this is a major issue.
6 x 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ squares (I cut mine squares 3″) 1 x Background (White) 2 x color 2 (dark red), 2 x color 3 (orange), 1 x color 4 (dark red)
16 x 2 7/8 x 2 7/8″ squares cut into HSTs (cut mine 3 1/2″). 14 x Background (White) 14 x color 2 (Dark Red) and 2 x color 3 (orange). All the squares should be cut into HSTs, total 32 HSTs.
1 x 6 1/4 x 6 1/4″ square cut into QSTs (cut mine 7″) Background Fabric
2 x 10 1/2 x 2 1/2″ strips (cut mine 11 1/2 x 3 1/2″)
1 strip not defined for stem cut mine 3 1/2″ width of Fat quarter
Assembly
paper piece all the HST strips Note of caution make sure all the HSTs are turned all the correct direction.
paper piece the base triangle.
trim on the cut line on all the sub pieces.
assemble all the sub pieces forming the tree.
Now add the strips on the two sides
Oh My we have completed all 24 blocks in the Billie’s Sampler Amazing and a huge Congrats.
This was a quick easy block. I again chose to paper piece, as I wanted all my points and colors to be perfect. It is basically I simple 4 patch which I paper pieced each sub block. The sub blocks are all the same except for the direction in which they are turned into the block, creating the windmill effect.
Above is the cutting instructions . The Foundation Paper Piecing templates. However if you choose to piece using traditional methods the last document is the actual templates that can be used.
This block has a weird cutting instructions. I just cut half square triangles to convert
2 x 3 7/8 x 3 7/8 inch square (I cut mine 4 1/2″) cut into half square triangles (HSTs). 2 squares second color (gray in the example) or 4 HSTs
4 x 5 1/8 x 5 1/8 inch square (cut mine 6″) cut into HSTs. 2 square color 3 and 2 squares color 4, should be 4 HSTs each color for a total of 8 HSTs
2 x 3 1/2″ strip Width of Fabric (WOF) (I used Fat Quarters (FQs)) this is background fabric (Yellow in example)
Assembly
All the HSTs have been cut out
Using Seam Align Glue to secure the first triangle which was orange. I then added the second triangle red secure seam with Seam align glue, then stitched using 150wt Saba from Amann Mettler with a 1.8mm straight stitch. Note: I made all 4 sub blocks at one time exactly the same
after pressing the second triangle into place, I secured my background strip to the long edge .
and finally adding the smaller corner HST to the sub block.
Now trim the 4 sub blocks on the cutting line.
with the 4 complete sub blocks arrange them in proper order and assemble as a standard 4 patch block.
Success your 23 Block Windmill Variation is complete only one more block in the Billie’s Sampler wow can’t believe we made it this far.
Kansas Dugout in my opinion was the most difficult block. Let me say there were was some choice words spoken while assembling this block. The entire block was partial and y seams. Not one seam is traditional. But this is a beautiful block and it was a huge learning experience.
Cutting
2 x 2 1/8 x 2 1/8″ square cut background fabric into Half Square Triangles (HSTs) , since I paper pieced this using templates cut the squares 3″ cut into HSTs.
6 x 1 3/4 x 5 15/16″ strips of background fabric, paper piecing size 2 1/2 x 6 1/2″ strips
13 x 2 1/4 x 2 1/4″ squares of mail fabric. paper piecing size is 3″ squares
16 x specialty pieces. 8 second and 8 third fabric colors. I used straps and pasted the pieces to my scraps and cut them out on the cutting line. Note: again some reason Electric Quilt ignored these pieces in the cutting instructions.
I paper pieced this block However, each piece is separate. I used scraps, using seam align glue, I attached all the individual pieces to scraps. This block is great for scraps. But it is nothing but partial and y seams. so take your time.
using pins and seam align glue to match the points and then stitching on the stitch lines on the paper templates. Note: since it is possible for the seams not to cross, you much lock the beginning and end of each seam. Also you need to be accurate on the stitch lines. if you stop short of the point then you could have a hole and if you over shot the end would cause a pucker. so take your time and be very very accurate. This block is a great skill builder in accuracy and control of your machine.
added lots of photos of the assembly This is a slow process and requires lots of patience. And lots of colorful adjectives spoken in the assembly, keep easy access to the seam ripper.
Wow Block 22 Kansas Dugout is complete. This block took lots of time and patience. All those Y seams. And must do each and every sub block individually and accurately. I added lots of photos so you can see the slow process. If you find a easier way please share?
Mexican Star Block 21 looks simple, but is more complicated than it looks. as the corner strips continue into the center Nine Patch. I tried to make it as a large nine patch but couldn’t work it out because of angles. Therefore, again ended up paper piecing.
Cutting
4 x 2 7/8 x 2 7/8″ square background fabric, cut into Half Square Triangles (HSTs), since paper piecing I cut mine larger. Again rounding to nearest 1/2 plus adding 1/2″ so cut 4 squares 3 1/2″ cut into HSTs
5 x 1 15/16 x 1 15/16 square background fabric. paper piecing cut 2 1/2″ squares
1 x 7 3/16 x 7 3/16″ square background fabric. cut into Quarter Square Triangles (QSTs). paper piecing size 8″ square cut into QSTs
8 x 1 15/16 x 5 1/8″ strips of second and third color. again paper piecing cut 8 strips 2 1/2 x 6″ strips 4 of second color and 4 third color
4 x strips 3″ x 10″ , I cut the strips from a fat quarter narrow width. 18″ Note: there is a error in the cutting instructions from Electric quilt. For some reason it ignored Fabric A .
Above are the templates for the block if you choose to use traditional piecing methods.
Assembly
using traditional paper piecing methods with seam align glue to secure starting pieces.
after finishing all the individual pieces. it is time to assemble the block.
wow congratulations. Block 21 – Mexican Star. This block went together rather quickly since I paper pieced it. I tried traditional piecing methods but it failed. Paper Piecing really make this block a great deal easier to assemble.
This feather design is very traditional I made the design in a 8″ and 6″ format. I included the master EMB file so that it can be adjust to the user specification. Also included EXP, JEF, VP3, and PES formats.
What is tolerance? It is the consequence of humanity. We are all formed of frailty and error; let us pardon reciprocally each other’s folly – that is the first law of nature.
New Topic, I have been experimenting with using my embroidery machine for quilting. I created this butterfly quilt design from a coloring book. I really like the simplicity.
In this baby quilt I am working on, I used a 28 wt Cotton thread, with 3mm stitches.
In the zip I have included the EMB master files for a 8″ and 6″ design. Also included machine files for Janome JEF, Bernina EXP, Brother/Babylock PES and Husquvarna Viking/Pfaff VP3.
I always knew this block as Blazing Star. There are many names some would call it a mini Lone Star etc. But the book says it is a Morning Star, so that is what we will use.
Cutting
36 x 2 1/2 x 1 3/4 inch 45 degree diamonds. This is 8 diamonds of each of your chosen 4 colors If you choose 3 colors then one color you will need 16 diamonds.
4 x 4 x4 inch squares for the corners of this block using your background fabric.
1 x 6 3/16 x 6 3/16 I cut my square at 6 1/2 x 6 1/2 and trimmed after stitching into the block. However cut your large square into quarter square triangles (QSTs). there should be 4 equal triangles.
I was going to piece my block the old fashioned way, like you would assemble if you were hand piecing. This didn’t work. Also had major issues cutting accurate 45 degree diamonds. So I eventual broke down and paper pieced this block. There are many little nuances and notes about paper piecing all these diamonds. I will explain as the block develops.
I originally cut my 45 degree diamonds using the markings on my cutting mat. eventually realized the diamonds were 45 degrees but not the correct size
Using seam align glue. I stitched my center diamonds in pairs to create a 8 pointed star, or Lamoyne Star.
Again using seam align glue I stitched the 4 pairs into a set of 2 pairs with 4 diamonds each.
Then I stitched the 2 half’s into a single 8 pointed star block.
When I tried to add the next row of 45 degree diamonds, using Y seams This failed miserably with the sewing machine. I either had a hole at the intersection or a pucker. This would have been so easy nudging and smashing if using a needle and thread and your hands. So I broke down and decided to just paper piece.
now when I started looking at my diamonds i really noticed how off they were compared to the paper piecing shapes. But lucky each diamond was too large and worked with paper piecing so I didn’t have to recut my diamonds.
with all your colors diamonds laid out you are ready to start paper piecing.
The paper piecing units are in sub blocks of 2 diamonds. Take notice that these blocks are directional and need to take extra caution in the direction you assemble your color diamonds and there is a top and bottom of each sub block.
now that stitching each of the sub blocks into the next level sub block of 4 diamonds making a larger diamond. the assembly is simple like i showed originally. stitch in pairs and then stitch again in pairs and then stitch the 2 half together.
The notice is how the seam lines and colors interact to keep them all going the correct direction I warn that you must take caution when assembling the sub blocks. I had to remove several of my diamonds to put them in the correct arrangement so the colors and seams all align properly.
You star is complete. Now we must add the background squares and QSTs to finish the block off
I marked each point in the block with a pencil showing where the 1/4″ seam was. Also marking 1/4″ on the background squares and triangles so the points can be accurately matched. As you must use Y and partial seams for this step . Also the seams must end exactly at the 1/4″ mark or you get a pucker. if the seam is too short then you get a hole.
after marking the 1/4′ mark in the points using seam align glue I added my corners and middle triangles.
The photo of the finished block is before I trimmed. You will notice the extra fabric in the middle triangles where I cut my large square a little to larger before making into QSTs. and you can also notice some of the pencil marks added so that my seams were accurate. I use true graphite #2 pencils The graphite will brush off and will definitely wash out. Be cautious many modern pencils use polymers mixed with the graphite. These polymers are difficult to remove. So I avoid them.
