2024 Quilt Along or Block of the Month. My journey in recreating Billie’s Sampler from Great American Quilts 1989 page 38. This is a 24 Block Sampler with mixed techniques. Piecing, Foundation Piecing, Applique, etc Going to be Fun. I have decided to use Anthology Batiks Love Fat Quarters mixed Reds.
now assemble your darker units with your lighter units. Again I used Seam Align Glue.
Again Press your seams open. And again i choose to press to the darker fabric.
Now there are 9 x 4 1/2 square blocks. Ready to be assembled into a standard nine patch configuration. There are many ways to assemble a rail fence block. Billie’s sampler showed a more complex zigzag layout which I choose to mimic as well. Lay your blocks out before assembly to get your overall design correct.
Now just assemble as a standard nine patch that your sub blocks are in your preferred layout.
I choose to assemble my nine patch in a 2 x 2 method starting at the left top to middle and finally left bottom. Then I also stitched the right top and right middle together. Be cautious to keep your blocks turned the correct way to maintain your overall design.
Keep going until your 9 patch is fully assembled.
Success!!! Your 14th block Rail Fence is now complete.
A few thoughts I used the Anthology Lovable Fat Quarter Collection. I love the Red and Oranges. But This block needed some contrast. I wish I had added a white base strip. But it is still beautiful in my opinion.
This block is simple strip piecing. The technique challenge is starting with partial seams.
I used Seam Align Glue, adding the first strip color to your 4 center blocks. Align the strip to the edge of the rectangle strip. with 1 1/2 inch over hang of the rectangle.
I stitched using my usual 1.8mm straight stitch (with 150wt core-spun polyester thread). leave approximately 1″ from the end of the square. This is the partial seam. Press to the rectangle strip.
now add row three of the strips. This is a repeat of row two.
fold the first strip back to the end of the seam. As shown in the photo. This gives you a smooth edge for the fourth strip.
Press your 4 strip to the strip edge.
now turning the 1st strip as it was before opening the piece. adding seam align glue finish adding strip 1 to strip 4.
carefully press the seam preparing for stitiching.
finish stitching the partial seam. and press the 1st strip back open
wow now there are 4 complete sub blocks measuring 6 1/2 x 6 1/2″
using standard assembly methods assemble your 4 patch to complete a 12 1/2 x 12 1/2 inch block
Finished
Exciting we have finished block 13 Bright Hopes. This was a simple fun easy pieced block. But has so many possibilities. And you learned how to use partial seams to complete a block
Framed Square – Block 12 Billie’s Sampler. Unique but simple. There are several ways to make this block. I chose to Foundation Paper Piece (FPP), wanting to get all the miter angles to align perfectly. Another way is to use simple Quarter Square Triangles (QSTs) with sashing. You can add sashing without the miter. or the with the miter the choice is up to you. this block is 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ with 4 x 6 1/2″ sub blocks.
The sizes are exact. No room for any mistake or complication. Because I FPP i cut my pieces a little big. (Note: Need to learn to check the round to 1/8″ in the printing with Electric Quilt 8). Cutting HSTs should be 3 3/4″ square, QSTs should be 5 1/4″ and the strips should be 1 1/2 x 7 1/4″
Print four copies. each side should measure 6 1/2″.
Cutting
4 x 6″ square, 1 of each color (cut into QSTs)
2 x 2 1/2″ strips width of Fat Quarter (each of all 4 colors).
Assembly
secure center QST to FPP template. add 2 1/2″ strip . stitch on line, I used a 1.8mm straight stitch using 150wt core-spun polyester thread (Amann Metter Saba)
Assembly as 4 patch, be cautious to match all the seams and corners.
Finish assembling your QSTs into squares. 6 1/2 x 6 1/2″ Using magic pins (note these pins bend easily), Acorn seam align glue each piece was perfectly secure for stitching.
Assemble the 4 x 6 1/2 x 6 1/2″ sub blocks into a single 4 patch 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ block.
Success! Block 12 Billie’s Sampler is complete, and double you have now completed 1/2 of the 24 blocks in the project. Congratulations.
Patience Corner is a simple pieced block I also made a Foundation Paper Piecing template, in the case you wanted to be positive your lines are perfectly straight. I used 3 colors in this block. This block again finished at 12 1/2 x 12 1/2 inches
Cutting
4 x 4 1/2 x 4 1/2″ Square
4 x 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ rectangle (2 x color option 1 and 2 x color option 2)
4 x 2 1/2 x 6 1/2 rectable (2 x color option 1 and 2 x color option 2)
This is the Foundation Paper Piecing templates. I did not use this as this is a simple strip piecing.
Assembly
Stitch a 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 inch rectangle strip to each of your 4 x 4 1/2 x 4 1/2″ square. Press to the strip side. Next stitch the 2 1/2 x 6 1/2 rectangle strip to each of your now 4 1/2 x 6 1/2″ units Press to the strip side
Note: I used Solid Batiks. if directional fabric is selected then caution must be taken to make sure the strips and square are in the proper placement. Use grid in the cutting instructions.
Assemble the four 6 1/2 x 6 1/2 units together as a 4 Patch unit. Taking note the direction of your colored strips.
Success! Patience Corner Block 11 of the Billie Sampler is complete. What a fun and simple block.
An old block made from Half Square Triangles (HSTs) and Square sub blocks. This block will be 12×12″ finished. Using 2″ finished sub blocks. Garden Path can be assembled two different ways. The most used would be a simple Nine Patch configeration which leads to 4 main Blocks. Or a Four Patch configeration which leads to a 9 main blocks. The choice is yours, depending on which configuration you are more comfortable with.
8 x 2 1/2″ squares 4 x Squares for the center 4 Patch and 4 x Squares for each corner of the block. Choose Colors accordingly.
28 x 4″ squares 10 x Path color, 4 x secondary color and 14 x background fabric
Assembly
All the squares are cut.
mark the back of the 10 x 4″ background squares to create 14 x HSTs. And add your 10 x Path Color and the 4 secondary color squares. Use your preferred method. I choose to mark my actual stitch lines. You can also draw one line from corner to corner and stitch a 1/4″ on both sides of the line.
stitch the HST lines. I use a 1.8mm stitch length using 150 weight corespun polyester thread. This aliminates any bulk in the seams. My preferred thread is Saba from Amann Mettler
with all your squares stitched corner to corner, it is time to cut each square in half between the 2 stitching lines. This will create a total of 28 HSTs. Pressing each HST open, I choose to press to the darker fabric. Now using a Martelli 2 1/2″ square template trim all 28 HSTs. You do this by aligning 2 opposite corners of the template with the seam of the HST.
Note: you can use any method to make your HSTs. The choice is yours. You need 28 x 2 1/2″ HSTs. I choose make the HSTs larger and trim down as this elimates any non perfect seams, or stretched bias from heavy pressing etc.
Using 4 x 2 1/2″ squares lets assemble the center Four Patch Unit
Now with caution and patience lets assemble the remaining blocks. Starting with sets of 2. working from the grid layout in the cutting instructions and using your color choices. You should have 32 units ready for stitching using 1/4″ seam allowance. this excludes the center 4 patch we created earlier.
Pressing your seams to the darker fabric. next round assemble the 2 patch units into 4 patch units. Again taking care to match the grid in the cutting instructions. You want to the path around the center 4 patch perfect.
Note: I choose to make my blocks into sub 4 patch units and assemble the final unit as a 9 patch.
Success! Garden Patch Block 10 of the Billie’s Sampler is complete. You should have a 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ block.
Jabob’s Ladder, Block 9 Billie’s Sampler is a simple wonderful old block. It is super simple. Based on a nine patch, but made with 5 sub four patch blocks and 4 sub half square triangle (HST) blocks. Block measures 12 x 12 inches finished.
Cutting
Square 2 1/2″ 10 x Colored Fabric and 10 x Background Fabric
Square 6″ 2 x Colored Fabric and 2 x Background Fabric
This is a simple block. The cutting instructions are exact cuts. No margin for error. I cut my HST blocks larger and trim to compensate for any error or miss alignment.
Assembly
Marking stitch lines on the background 6″ squares for making 2 at a time HSTs. I use a Studio 180 Magic Wand to mark the seam line. However you can draw a single line from corner to corner and stitch 1/4 from both sides of the line.
Using Seam Align Glue, I secure my square from corner to corner. The adding the colored fabric 6″ square
Using heat to set the glue, securing the squares. Ready for stitching.
For simplicity. start creating your 4 patch units. using 1 x color fabric and 1 x background fabric 2 1/2″ squares. 10 units are ready for stitching 1/4″ seam allowance
Stitch each side of the center of your square. I use a 1.8 mm straight stitch with 150 wt corespun polyester thread, There is absolutly no bulk in your seams. After stitching the 2 squares, cut down the middle corner to corner, creating 2 HSTs per square unit. Press your HSTs open. I press to the darker fabric.
Using the 4 1/2″ square template. Align opposite corners along the seam of your HST. The template will give you a perfect edge to trim your HSTs to the proper size.
Align your 2 patch units with opposits to create a 4 patch unit. Upon completion there will be 5 x 4 patch 4 1/2″ units.
Almost finished. Assemble your final 9 patch unit. your finished unit should be 12 1/2 x 12 1/2 inches. Also take note on the placement of the HSTs. This is important to complete the effect of the Jacobs Ladder block.
Block 8 Flying Geese was paper pieced. I thought i would be easier to create this block using Foundation Paper Piecing. This block will finish at 12 x 12 inches
The finished block is 12 1/2 x 12 1/2 inches and made up of 4 individual paper pieced blocks of 6 1/2 x 6 1/2 The block uses 4 colors in each sub block with a secondary background fabric. This makes a total of 5 fabric colors.
Cutting
Square 3 1/2 inch (4 Background, 2 x each Fabric (4 Fabric colors in total))
Square 5 1/2 inch 4 x Background Fabric
Square 4 inches 8 x Background Fabric
Half Square Triangles (HSTs) cut 4 squares of background fabric a minimum of 3 inchs. I used 3 1/2 inch for ease of assembly. Now cut these 4 squares corner to corner to create 8 HSTs.
Cut 2 squares each of your four fabrics for the center of the geese. Again cut each square corner to corner to create 4 HSTs of each color. There should be 16 colored HSTs.
Cut 4 squares of background Fabric minimum 5 inches. Again I added 1/2 inch for a 5 1/2 inch square to ease alignment of each piece. Again cut each square corner to corner to create 8 HSTs
Cut 8 squares of background fabric minimum 3 1/4 inches. However I cut mine to 4 inches. again to aid in alignment of piecing. Instead of cutting into HSTs. These 8 Squares will be cut into Quarter Square Triangles (QSTs). this is cutting corner to corner on block sides of the square to create 4 individual triangles per square block. there should be a total of 32 QSTs.
Above is the Cutting instructions to be printed These are exact sizes. (This comes from Electric Quilt 8, each cut includes 1/4 inch seam allowance.) I always increast my size a little and trim down Usually rounded to nearest 1/2 inch and then add 1/2 inch for error.
Above is the foundation paper piecing pattern. Print 4 copies. Please measure to make sure your printer is correct the dashed cutting line should measure 6 1/2 inchs the solid square line should measure 6 inches.
Note: I recently started using a new printer. A Brother. I had to increase my scaling to 103 percent to obtain the correct size. My old HP printer was very accurate. So please check your measurements.
Selecting the 4 HSTs of color fabrics and the Background fabric QSTs
with your FPPing print (making sure it measures 6 1/2″ along th e dotted cut line) Start with the first color fabric and squre to your template. you can start at either end. I usually start at the top in this photo, the long side of the colored geese unit.
Using the background QST units assemble them on each side of your first color HST geese unit. Use standard FPP techniques.
Continue to your second geese unit.
Using an Add A Quarter ruler I trim my edges there will be a little to trim on each piece because I made each of the pieces 1/2″ bigger
once all 4 queese are stitched. Add the smaller background HSTs on each end and now add the larger background HSTs to each side of the unit.
Repeat this to complete the 4 units.
Making sure the 4 units are properly aligned preceed to assemble each of the units
Success your 8th block is complete.
Note: recently i saw an vintage quilt using this block to create a Flying Geese Irish Chain. it was stunning. Make this block has made me appreciate Flying Geese So many options and they are not that difficult with proper cutting and a little patience.
The Dreden Plate is a old pattern. This one gave me a hard time but got it finished. I tried making the full bloom at the top but the finished design was too big for my block. I missed aligned my petals and the result was a flower about 1/4 inch too big.
Therefore, I remembered I had a Dresden die from AccuQuilt. So I used my die. And made a more traditional block.
Cutting
20 x a flower template. the choice is either full bloom or tradtional. and also has cutting lines and applique lines
Above is the templates for a traditonal dresden plate design with a open circlular center.
I used the template to cut 20 petals using my 4 orange/red colors. That was 5 petal blades for each colors
Finding the center of my 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ background block.
Testing my petals. Seems as though everything was going to dit properly
I appliqued my petals down. I used a double blanket stitch (4mm x 2mm) between the petals. Used a standard blanket stitch (2mm x 2mm) on the curve tops of each petals.
Really likes the finished block. However it was too large for this project. Will find another project to use this block.
Using my Dresden die I cut 20 petal blades. Cutting 5 blades if my 4 colors
Using seam align glue I matched my petals into blade combos
I pieces each blade with a standard 1/4″ seam allowance. Using a 1.8mm straight stitch.
Pressed the petals to the darker fabric
Again using seam align glue assembled each blade set.
Continue assembling each blade set until you have a complete circle.
Finding the center of my 12 1/2″ square block, securing your circle flower to the center
Using a standard blanket stitch (2mm x 2mm) secure the flowers to your background square.
Congratulations. Your Dresden block is complete. I made 2 blocks. The first was the full bloom which I used applique techniques. however this flower was too large for my 12 1/2″ square so I resorted to making a tradtional dresdan plate design. Instead of using templates I used my Accuquilt Dresdan Plate die.
King X Block 6 can be pieced. however I decided to paper piece. The reason for PP was to get all my point and seams perfectly alligned. I also used the fabric from my Loveable Batik Fat Quater Bundle from Anthology Fabrics. The colors are very close. So looks nice but I would recommend more contrast
Cutting
8 x 10×3 inch fabric for the center strips
4 x 4×4 inch squares for your corner pieces. These are to be cut into Half Square Triangles giving you a total of 8 triangles.
When printing the paper templates for the paper piecing make sure your printer is set to scale at 100%. Also a note, I discovered it worked best to start with one of the middle strips and piece in the both directions.
finished stitching all four PP templates. Now trim them.
you should now have 4 x 6 1/2 inch squares
I used pins to match my exact corners. This takes time but is well worth effort. I use Seam Align Glue to secure my pieces once they are aligned perfectly.
stitching on the paper piecing seam lines. I use a thin thread (Amann Mettler Saba 150wt) and a 1.8mm straight stitch.
I remove the bulk from my seams. Tearing the paper from the seams is simple with the smaller stitches it is perferated and easy to remove the paper.
now again using pins to align my corners perfectly, it is time to assemble the final 4 patch unit.
Congrats you have finsihed this block. Looks simple but getting all the seams and points to align can be a challenge.
Wow this was a fun block. But also horroring. The Honey Bee block has a pieced nine patch center and applique corners. I wanted to turn my applique edges. However to my horror, my hands no longer allow me to manage such small tasks. This was a shock. But I broke down and finished the block using raw edge. However in the templates I have also included 1/4 borders so anyone can choose. Raw or Turned edge.
Cutting
4 – 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 square background patches
4 – 3 1/2 x 6 1/2″ rectangle Background
9 – 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 square 5 patches accent fabric and 4 patches background fabric
Note: will need some accent scrape to use for applique.
here are the cut squares for my nine patch. Since I am using a fat quarter bundle from Anthology Batiks, called Loveable. I choose to accent colors. I cut 4 squares my main red and then 1 square a orange accent for the center block.
Using standard 1/4″ seam allowance (#97D foot for my Bernina 590). make your nine patch any method you choose. I actually used cut squares with Seam Align Glue for accuracy. however you may choose any method .
Adding Border
Once the nine patch is complete stitch a 3 1/2 x 6 1/2 unit on two opposite sides. And sew a 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 square to the 2 remaing 3 1/2 x 6 1/2 inch strips using your standard 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Now stitch using a 1/4 inch seam allowance the 12 1/2 x 3 1/2 inch strips to the other two sides of your nine patch block. Being careful to match your seams. I pressed my seams out.
Now using the templates provided. cut your applique pieces using scraps within your color range or fabric. (note: you need 2 D pieces. These pieces are angled to fit currently.
adhere your applique pieces to each corner using the layout on the template sheet. I used Elmer’s Glue Stick for the process. After all pieces are placed in the proper position, use a warm iron to secure the glue.
Using a 2mm x 2mm blanket stitch I secured my applique pieces. Proceed slowly to have smooth accurate curvers. (I used Amann Mettler Saba 150wt corespun polyester thread color 3000 (Candlewick), which is nearly invisible) Note I removed my paper templates as I prepared to stitch the pieces down.
After a light pressing, success your block is complete.
I really like this block. Was fun to make. Somewhat unique. Think it would make a beautiful quilt.
